Local Experience & Knowledge of improving Energy Efficiency in Lady Bay Homes

Low disruption, cost-effective, do it first, If not already done or if existing insulation is thin (aim for 400mm depth minimum). Now might be the time to decide whether a loft conversion is likely to be required at some point, because this would allow very effective insulation to be installed internally.

Floorboards, window frames, letterbox. Low cost, can be done room by room. Chimneys should still be ventilated however (fit a cap or balloon if not in use).

Ground floors may be suspended timber or solid concrete. Suspended timber can be insulated with due consideration for ventilation. Solid concrete floors might be a bigger job to insulate unless there's scope to raise the floor level. Tackle ground floor rooms as floors are exposed for other work. Cellars, where they exist, make it easier to access the ground floor.

Overall double-glazing windows does not have as big an impact on thermal efficiency as some hope. Double glazing is more straightforward to retrofit in inter-war and modern properties than in older ones. Existing stained glass can be 'encapsulated', although this costs extra and may be less effective. Victorian/Edwardian houses could consider draught-proofing and repair of existing sash windows before replacement. Secondary glazing is worth considering where the original windows are sound. Companies do exist that can double-glaze sash windows.

Of course double-glazing offers additional benefits in terms of sound insulation and, in the case of UPVC, low maintenance.

Cavity wall insulation is an obvious choice if the walls are suitable and have not already been filled. Get a proper survey first; not all cavities are appropriate.

External insulation can be installed at any time, provided it is practical. It's very effective as it uses the walls as a thermal store, smoothing out temperature changes. It also minimises internal disruption and allows original features such as cornices or high skirtings to be retained. It might be viewed as more aesthetically acceptable for 20s-50s era of housing than Victorian/Edwardian.

Internal insulation is also effective and is more suited to the room-by-room approach but you have to accept some loss of room size.

Can wait until fabric work is substantially complete, although such work should ensure that they can accommodate the additional requirements of the new forms of heating systems. Heat pumps run at a much lower temperatures than those of a gas boiler so you will still need to assess whether a heat pump is viable given the remaining heat loss.

Can be done at any stage but most valuable once energy demand is reduced and ideally once a heat pump and battery is in place. Note that brackets to hold solar panel support rails can be fitted without compromising weatherproofing., so provision for these could be included in any re-roofing work.

▲  Cavity wall insulation surveys matter — exposed or damp walls, narrow cavities or previous partial fills can all cause problems if not identified first
▲  External wall insulation changes the appearance of the property and is expensive. Historically this has ruled it out for most residential Victorian terraces although Lady Bay has seen some recent cases of it being done.  Also many houses in Lady Bay share a wall with their neighbour’s boundary, which might preclude installation on that side, as it would overlap their neighbour’s land ('step-out' coverage may be possible to alleviate this problem in some cases).
▲  Both internal and External wall insulation are very disruptive. Externally drainpipes, guttering and other external services and features will need to be moved or adapted. Internally the whole room will have to be cleared (ditto floor insulation) and some space will have to lost due to the thickness of the insulation.
▲  Internal wall insulation needs to take account of future heating systems' requirements, in terms of power sockets, piping and radiators.
▲  Ensure sufficient ventilation is still in place after insulating floors or walls and replacing windows. Materials selected need to be able to breathe - "Think - wearing a plastic mac on a wet summer's day".
▲  Be careful to avoid or deal with thermal bridges. Seek to design in measures for vapour control and to avoid condensation.

• Loft insulation — essentially maintenance free

• Draught-proofing — seals and strips degrade and need periodic replacement

• Floor insulation — maintenance free once done

• Windows — almost maintenance-free if in UPVC. Sealed double glazed units can fail (misting between panes), typically after 15-25 years but can be replaced

• Cavity wall insulation — generally maintenance free once installed, but can settle or degrade over decades

• External wall insulation — the render or cladding finish will need repainting or repair periodically, perhaps every 15-25 years

• Internal wall insulation — maintenance free once done